Japan 2026

Tokyo · Hakone · Kyoto · Osaka

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Hotel Kajikaso

Oct 12–14 · 2 nights

Hakone

Hot springs

Photo Hotel Kajikaso

Two nights of onsen in the mountains, mid-week so it should be quiet.

To do before this leg

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Where we're staying

Hotel Kajikaso — 箱根湯本温泉 ホテル河鹿荘Booked

Oct 12 → Oct 14 · 2nights · check-in 3:00 PM · out 11:00 AM

Reservation
X-BTKB11IHL6Q
Room
Hiten (飛天) · Room 508
Guests
1 room · 3 adults
Check-in
Oct 12 · 3:00 PM
Check-out
Oct 14 · 11:00 AM
Meals
Kaiseki dinner and breakfast both mornings, all served in our room.
Plan
温泉付き特別室 -IKOI 憩- · 11:00 checkout · meals served in the room
Payment
¥433,200 total — paid on site (現地決済), not prepaid

688 Yumoto, Hakone, Ashigarashimo-gun, Kanagawa 250-0311, Japan

Five minutes' walk from Hakone-Yumoto Station, right on the Hayakawa River. Our plan buys back an extra hour in the morning — 11:00 checkout instead of the hotel's standard 10:00 — and both meals come to the room. The hotel draws on nine of its own hot spring sources.

Getting there

Hakone → KyotoLocked in

Hakone-Yumoto back to Odawara, then Shinkansen to Kyoto. Around 2.5 hrs door to door.

Day by day

Oct 12

MonArrive Hakone (via Yokohama)
  • Oct 12 is Sports Day, a national holiday

    Locked in

    Sports Day is the second Monday of October, so arrival day is the tail of a three-day weekend. Expect busier Yokohama and Odawara trains and fuller Romancecar seats, and the Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum opens at 10:30 on holidays. Reserve the Romancecar seat during the first Tokyo weekend rather than on the day.

  • 10:30 AM

    Option A: Shin-Yokohama & Ramen Museum

    Idea

    Shin-Yokohama (Ramen Museum)

    🍜 Stopover: 1958 Showa retro townscape with 6–8 regional mini ramen stalls (lockers on site). 🗺️ Route & Stops: 1. Tokyo / Shinagawa / Shibuya ➔ Shin-Yokohama Station (新横浜駅) • Shinkansen from Tokyo (17m) / Shinagawa (11m) or Tokyu Line from Shibuya (25m direct) • North Exit (北口) ➔ 5 min walk to Ramen Museum 2. Shin-Yokohama ➔ Odawara Station (小田原駅) • JR Tokaido Shinkansen (Kodama/Hikari) · 15 min 3. Odawara ➔ Hakone-Yumoto Station (箱根湯本駅 · OH51) • Hakone Tozan Railway (Platform 7/11) · 15 min 4. Walk 5 min (350m) across Ajisai Bridge to Hotel Kajikaso

  • 10:30 AM

    Option B: Yokohama Chinatown & Bishinshuka (Mapo Tofu)

    Idea

    Yokohama Chinatown (Hong Kong Road)

    🌶️ Stopover: Viral table-side fresh Mapo Douhua (silky tofu formed at the table) + hand-pulled Biangbiang noodles. 🗺️ Route & Stops: 1. Shibuya ➔ Motomachi-Chukagai Station (元町・中華街駅 · MM06) • Tokyu Toyoko / Minatomirai Line (F-Liner) · 35 min DIRECT (no transfer!) • Exit 2 or 3 ➔ 5 min walk down Hong Kong Road (lockers at station) 2. Motomachi-Chukagai ➔ Yokohama Station (横浜駅) • Minatomirai Line · 8 min 3. Yokohama Station ➔ Odawara Station (小田原駅) • JR Tokaido Line (Rapid Acty or Local) · 45–50 min 4. Odawara ➔ Hakone-Yumoto Station (箱根湯本駅 · OH51) • Hakone Tozan Railway (Platform 7/11) · 15 min 5. Walk 5 min (350m) across Ajisai Bridge to Hotel Kajikaso

  • 12:00 PM

    Option C: Direct Romancecar & Hakone-Yumoto Lunch

    Idea

    Near Hakone-Yumoto Station

    🗺️ Direct Route (No Stopover): 1. Shinjuku Station ➔ Hakone-Yumoto Station (Odakyu Romancecar · 85 min) 2. Arrive around noon for a riverfront lunch: Yubadon Naokichi (bubbling tofu skin pots), Hatsuhana Soba (mountain yam soba), Shika-Jaya (tofu kaiseki), or Hakone Curry Cocoro. 3. Check in at Hotel Kajikaso at 15:00.

  • 3:00 PM

    Check in — Hotel Kajikaso

    Booked

    5 min walk from Hakone-Yumoto Station

    Room 508 (Hiten), 5th floor. Be checked in by 6:00 PM — arrive after 7:00 PM and dinner is forfeit with no refund. Dinner and breakfast times are taken at check-in on a first-come basis, so earlier is better.

  • The room's own open-air onsen bath

    Booked

    Room 508 has a private hot spring bath — no schedule, no sharing, and it sidesteps the tattoo question entirely.

  • Big baths — Seiryu no Yu (6F) or Soun no Yu (2F)

    Locked in

    Afternoon/evening: 6F is women's, 2F is men's. They swap at 5:00 AM. The 6F terrace baths are the ones with the mountain view, so plan which session you want.

  • 5:30 PM

    Kaiseki dinner, in our room

    Booked

    Included in the plan. 5:30 or 6:30 PM — we pick at check-in, first come first served, so arriving early gets the slot we actually want. Monthly kaiseki built on Sagami Bay seafood and Japanese Black wagyu.

Oct 13

TueHakone — full day
  • 8:00 AM

    Breakfast, in our room

    Booked

    Included. 8:00 or 8:30 AM, same slot choice as dinner.

  • early

    Second big bath, before breakfast

    Idea

    5:00–9:30 AM the baths have swapped, so this is the window to see the other one.

  • Hakone Golden Route

    Idea

    The classic Hakone loop — mountain railway up to Gōra, cable car, Hakone Ropeway over Owakudani, pirate ship across Lake Ashi, and Hakone Shrine's lake torii. Covered by the Hakone Freepass.

  • 12:30 PM

    Lunch on the Golden Route

    Idea

    Along the loop (Gōra, Owakudani, or Lake Ashi)

    Lunch options along the loop: Bakery & Table Hakone (lakeside terrace & bakery at Moto-Hakone with footbath), Tamura Ginkatsu-tei (famous tofu katsu-ni at Gōra), La Terrazza Ashinoko (wood-fired pizza by the lake), or Owakudani Kitchen (curry & black eggs overlooking volcanic vents).

  • Footbath on the river terrace

    Locked in

    Straight from the source, looking over the Hayakawa. Good landing spot between getting back and dinner.

  • Relaxation salon “Akari” (6F)

    Idea

    Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays — and Oct 13 is a Tuesday, so this only works on the 12th. Book ahead if anyone wants it.

  • evening

    Karaoke, or the izakaya “Hachiri”

    Idea

    Karaoke rooms (Utahime, Orihime, Otohime, 2F) run 7:30 PM to midnight. There is no online booking — ask at the front desk when we check in, or call 0460-85-5561 ahead. Hachiri does ramen and fried rice until 1:00 AM if karaoke is full.

Oct 14

WedHakone → Kyoto
  • 8:00 AM

    Breakfast, in our room

    Booked

    Included — the second and last one.

  • Last soak

    Idea

    Big baths run to 9:30 AM. Our plan has an 11:00 checkout, so there's a comfortable hour after breakfast — and the room's own bath has no cut-off at all.

  • 11:00 AM

    Check out — Hotel Kajikaso

    Booked

    11:00 AM checkout (included in the IKOI plan). Luggage sent from Tokyo will already be waiting at MONday Apart in Kyoto.

  • 11:15 AM

    Train: Hakone-Yumoto ➔ Odawara ➔ Kyoto Station

    Locked in

    Hakone-Yumoto ➔ Odawara ➔ Kyoto Station

    🗺️ Route & Stops: 1. Hakone-Yumoto Station ➔ Odawara Station (小田原駅) • Hakone Tozan Railway · 15 min (covered by Hakone Freepass) 2. Odawara Station ➔ Kyoto Station (京都駅) • JR Tokaido Shinkansen (Hikari bullet train direct · ~2 hr 05 min) 3. Kyoto Station ➔ MONday Apart Premium KYOTO Station • Walk 11 min (850m) northwest from Central/Karasuma Exit • Or Kyoto City Bus #205/#208 to 'Shichijo Horikawa' (1 min walk) • Or quick 3-min taxi (~¥800)

Details

The Golden Route8 stops · everything on the Freepass
Hakone Tozan BusHakone Tozan Train · ~40 minHakone Tozan Cable Car · ~10 minHakone Ropeway · ~15 minHakone Ropeway · ~30 min via UbakoHakone Sightseeing Cruise · ~30 minArrive by boat, then walk the lakeshore · ~20 min between ports 1 Hakone-Yumoto 箱根湯本 2 Gōra 強羅 3 Sōunzan 早雲山 4 Ōwakudani 大涌谷 5 Tōgendai 桃源台 6 Lake Ashi cruise 芦ノ湖 7 Hakonemachi & Moto-Hakone 箱根町・元箱根
The loop, end to end. The dashed line is the ride home.
Hakone's classic loop, done as one circle so you never backtrack — mountain railway up, cable car, ropeway over the crater, boat across the lake, bus home. Every leg is covered by the Freepass. Allow a full day — about 2 hrs 15 of pure travel plus stops.
The whole Hakone area — the loop runs anticlockwise from Hakone-Yumoto, bottom right.
The whole Hakone area — the loop runs anticlockwise from Hakone-Yumoto, bottom right.
The Hakone Tozan line and its connections
The Hakone Tozan line and its connections

The ticket

Hakone FreepassLocked in

Covers
Eight modes of transport: Hakone Tozan Train, Tozan Cable Car, Hakone Ropeway, Sightseeing Cruise, Hakone Tozan Bus, the Kanko Shisetsu-Meguri sightseeing bus, Odakyu Highway Bus and Tokai Bus. Plus discounts at about 70 attractions.
Price
From Shinjuku ¥7,100 (2-day) / ¥7,500 (3-day). Hakone area only, from Odawara ¥6,000 (2-day) / ¥6,400 (3-day). The Romancecar is a separate reserved-seat surcharge — ¥1,200 Shinjuku→Hakone-Yumoto, ¥200 Odawara→Hakone-Yumoto.
Which one
We arrive Oct 12 and leave for Kyoto on the 14th, so a 3-day pass covers all three days including the ride back down to Odawara. The Shinjuku version bundles a return to Shinjuku we won't use, so the sums are near enough identical — take the Shinjuku one for simplicity.

⚠️ Validity counts from the DATE OF PURCHASE, not first use — buy it on the morning of Oct 12, not the day before.

1

Hakone-Yumoto箱根湯本

Start — on foot from the hotel · 5 min walk

Start here — 5 minutes' walk from the hotel.

Eating

  • The station street is lined with snack stalls — good for a quick bite before heading up rather than a sit-down lunch.

Stamp — Station stamp at Hakone-Yumoto — the Tozan line's main one. Ask at the gate if it isn't out on the counter.

Buy the Freepass here at the Odakyu counter before boarding. Validity counts from the DATE OF PURCHASE, so buy it the morning we travel, not the day before.

2

Gōra強羅

Hakone Tozan Train · ~40 min

The mountain railway climbs 400 m using three switchbacks — the driver and guard swap ends at each one. Sit on the right going up for the ravine views.

Hakone Gōra Park — free with the pass
Hakone Gōra Park — free with the pass

Free with the pass

  • Hakone Gora Park
    Normally ¥650 — FREE with the Freepass. A French-style terraced garden with greenhouses, right by the station.Map →

Discounted with the pass

  • Hakone Open-Air Museum
    ¥2,000 → ¥1,900. Sculpture park with a Picasso pavilion. It's a stop before Gōra (Chōkoku-no-Mori) and needs 2 hrs — probably too much for loop day, better as its own trip.Map →
  • Hakone Museum of Art
    ¥1,100 → ¥1,000. Moss garden, one of the best autumn foliage spots in Hakone — and mid-October is just before peak. Two minutes from Gōra by cable car.Map →

Eating

  • Gōra Brewery & Grill — craft beer brewed with Hakone water, meat dishes; the nicest sit-down option on the route.
  • Tamura Ginkatsutei — the famous tofu-katsuni. Expect a queue and check it's open; this is the local institution.
  • Gōra Brewery Public House — Neapolitan pizza and house beer, roughly ¥2,000–3,000.

Stamp — Station stamp at Gōra.

This is the natural lunch stop. Eat here before the ropeway — options thin out badly after Ōwakudani.

3

Sōunzan早雲山

Hakone Tozan Cable Car · ~10 min

A funicular straight up the hillside. Change here for the ropeway.

The ropeway climbing out of Sōunzan
The ropeway climbing out of Sōunzan

Stamp — Stamp at Sōunzan station.

4

Ōwakudani大涌谷

Hakone Ropeway · ~15 min

The volcanic valley — steam vents, sulphur, and on a clear day Mt Fuji straight ahead. Everyone changes gondolas here, so it's a natural stop. Most people spend 45–90 min.

The volcanic valley, with the ropeway overhead
The volcanic valley, with the ropeway overhead
Kuro-tamago — the black eggs
Kuro-tamago — the black eggs

Discounted with the pass

  • Ōwakudani-eki Shokudō
    20% off drinks with the Freepass.

Eating

  • Kuro-tamago — the black eggs, boiled in the sulphur springs. About ¥500 for five. Local lore says each one adds seven years to your life. This is the thing to eat here; it isn't really a lunch stop.

Stamp — Ropeway station stamp at Ōwakudani.

The ropeway shuts for high wind (30 m/s+) and occasionally for volcanic gas, with replacement buses from Sōunzan or Tōgendai. Check on the morning. The old walking trails to the steam vents are still closed to casual visitors.

5

Tōgendai桃源台

Hakone Ropeway · ~30 min via Ubako

Down the far side to Lake Ashi. The gondolas are glass-sided the whole way.

Stamp — Stamp at Tōgendai station/port.

Ropeway runs 9:00–17:00 (Feb–Nov). Don't leave it late.

6

Lake Ashi cruise芦ノ湖

Hakone Sightseeing Cruise · ~30 min

The pirate ships. Three of them, all faintly absurd, all included in the pass. First sailing around 9:00, last around 17:00. The upstairs deck is where the views are — the 'special room' costs extra and isn't worth it in good weather.

One of the three pirate ships on Lake Ashi
One of the three pirate ships on Lake Ashi

Look back towards Fuji as you cross; and ahead for the red torii standing in the water at Moto-Hakone.

7

Hakonemachi & Moto-Hakone箱根町・元箱根

Arrive by boat, then walk the lakeshore · ~20 min between ports

Two ports about 20 minutes' walk apart along the lakeshore, with the old Tokaido cedar avenue between them. Do the checkpoint at Hakonemachi, walk to Moto-Hakone, then the shrine.

Heiwa-no-Torii, standing in the lake
Heiwa-no-Torii, standing in the lake
The rebuilt Hakone checkpoint
The rebuilt Hakone checkpoint

Free with the pass

  • Onshi-Hakone Park
    Free. The old imperial detached palace grounds on the headland between the two ports — the best free lake view in Hakone.Map →
  • Hakone Shrine & the lake torii
    The shrine grounds are free. The famous vermilion torii standing in the water (Heiwa-no-Torii) is a 5-min walk down from the main hall — expect a queue for the photo.Map →

Discounted with the pass

  • Hakone Shrine Treasure Museum
    ¥500 → ¥400 with the pass.
  • Hakone Checkpoint (Sekisho)
    Discounted with the pass. A faithful reconstruction of the Edo-period barrier that controlled the Tokaido road.Map →
  • Narukawa Art Museum
    Discounted. Modern Japanese painting, and a picture window over the lake that is arguably the main exhibit.Map →

Eating

  • Bakery & Table Hakone — lakeside terrace at Moto-Hakone, footbath under the tables on the ground floor. The easy, reliable choice.
  • La Terrazza Ashinoko — lake views, sit-down.

Stamp — Stamps at both ports, and usually at the Sekisho checkpoint and Hakone Shrine — shrines often have a stamp alongside the goshuin desk.

8

Back to Hakone-Yumoto箱根湯本

Hakone Tozan Bus · ~35–40 min

The bus down the old road closes the loop. Buses run frequently from both Moto-Hakone and Hakonemachi.

Back at the hotel in time for the 5:30 or 6:30 dinner sitting — leave the lake by about 16:30 to be safe.

Our roomHiten (飛天) · Room 508

River-view Japanese-Western room with private open-air onsen bath

Layout
12.5 tatami · 76 m² · 5th floor
Sleeps
Sleeps up to 8 — three of us in it
Who
Three adults
Floor plan for Hiten (飛天) · Room 508
Floor plan
The terrace, over the riverPrivate open-air onsen bathTwin beds, opening onto the terraceTatami room and dining tableLiving area, river sideLiving room and TVTatami room, other angleWashbasin, bath beyondCloset and luggage space

Both rooms are in the hotel's IKOI (憩) group of six special rooms on the 5th floor — every one of them has its own hot spring bath.

Ryokan Meals & Kaiseki Dining PlanKaiseki dinner & breakfast · both served in our room

Kaiseki dinner and breakfast both mornings, all served in our room.

  • Venue: In-room dining (お部屋食). The plan covers it for up to four people and there are three of us, so we qualify. This is the good outcome — the “private banquet room” is what you get instead when a party is too big for in-room service, not an upgrade on it.
  • Dinner: 5:30 PM or 6:30 PM · Breakfast: 8:00 AM or 8:30 AM
  • Time selection: Times are taken at check-in, first come first served — so an early check-in gets the slot we actually want.
  • Venue rule: Dinner and breakfast are served in the same place. We can't take dinner in the room and breakfast in the restaurant, or the other way round — whatever venue is set covers both meals.
Group Dining with Friend's Group

Eating with Friend's group is possible but it costs us the room service: two or more rooms on one sitting moves everyone to the dining hall or a private banquet room, and the hotel decides which — we can't request a specific one. It also applies to breakfast, not just dinner. The hotel asks that separate bookings wanting to dine together say so in advance so they can arrange the seating. Worth deciding before we call.

Dietary & Allergies

Only Japan's nine designated allergens can be accommodated, and only with at least a week's notice including the headcount. Nothing received by noon the day before means no adjustment. Dislikes and religious dietary restrictions are explicitly not catered for.

Late Arrival

Arrive after 7:00 PM and dinner is forfeit with no refund. Check-in should be finished by 6:00 PM. Tell them in advance if the train time is tight.

What to Ask the Ryokan

Verdict: Yes, ask — but ask in a specific order. The confirmation email invites it: separate bookings that want to eat together are told to say so in advance and the hotel will arrange seating. The split we want (dinner together downstairs, breakfast in our room) cuts against their “same place for both meals” line, so it's a request, not a right.

Why it's worth trying: the rule that pushes us out of the room is about party size on one sitting — 5+ people or 2+ rooms — not about every meal we eat. Breakfast for just our three in our own room doesn't trip it. Private rooms plainly exist too: Nishiki has 11 seating 2–12, which fits our 3 plus Friend's room. What we can't do is pick which one.

The ask, in order:

  1. First choice: dinner together in a private dining room, breakfast in our room both mornings.
  2. Then say the important bit: if dinner together means breakfast also has to move out of the room, we'd rather keep both meals in the room.
  3. Fallback if they say no: keep in-room dining, and meet Friend's group afterwards at the izakaya or karaoke — both run late.

Risk: ask loosely and they may solve it by moving both meals downstairs, which costs us the in-room breakfast we already have. The conditional sentence is what prevents that.

How: use the contact form, in writing, rather than the phone — the front desk is 9:00–19:00 JST, which is 8 PM to 6 AM in Boston. Send it with the allergy question, it's the same conversation: https://www.kajikaso.co.jp/contact/

Extras & Venues (if we eat downstairs)

Side dishes (別注料理) can be ordered on top of the set menu. AOI Dining has 11 tables and four private rooms seating 2–6; Nishiki has 11 private rooms with sunken floors seating 2–12, next to the open kitchen.

Onsen & Public Hot SpringsTwo bath complexes — and they swap gender mid-day
Seiryu no Yu — 6th floor

Women 2:30 PM – 1:00 AM · Men 5:00 – 9:30 AM

The top-floor baths. Four open-air tubs along a wooden terrace plus a big cypress tub, and a bright indoor bath with floor-to-ceiling windows onto the Hakone mountains. The named baths up here are Hoshimi no Yu (stargazing), Hanami no Yu (flower viewing) and Tsukimi no Yu (moon watching).

Soun no Yu — 2nd floor

Men 2:30 PM – 1:00 AM · Women 5:00 – 9:30 AM

An 18-metre-wide indoor bath with two open-air options: Kajika no Yu, a big rock bath, and Utatane no Yu, a shallow lying-down bath. The Hayakawa River runs right outside.

Gender swap — go twice

The two big baths swap gender halfway through the day, so you can only reach the 6F terrace baths in the afternoon/evening if you're using the women's side, or early morning if you're using the men's. To see both, go twice — once after check-in and once before breakfast. Our room has its own bath either way.

One of the open-air baths
One of the open-air baths
Friend's Room: Manten · Room 505Same floor as us

Friend's group: river-view Japanese-Western room with private open-air onsen bath · 8 tatami · 46 m² · sleeps up to 6. Both rooms are in the IKOI (憩) group of six special rooms on the 5th floor.

Floor plan: Manten Room 505
Floor plan: Manten Room 505
Tatami room with beds
Tatami room with beds
Private open-air bath
Private open-air bath
River view
River view
Around the Hotel & Facilities10 things on site, with opening hours
Footbath on the river terrace

Fed straight from the source, overlooking the Hayakawa.

Lobby & lounge “Seseragi”

Coffee, espresso, soft drinks; draft beer from 3:00 PM. Open 7:30 AM – 7:00 PM.

Bamboo garden

At the entrance — includes kikko-chiku, a rare tortoise-shell bamboo.

Izakaya “Hachiri” (2F)

Ramen, fried rice and drinks after the bath. Open 4:00 PM – 1:00 AM.

Club “Saika” (2F)

Adult-oriented lounge. Open 7:30 PM – midnight.

Karaoke — Utahime, Orihime, Otohime

Three rooms, good for an afterparty.

Game corner “Pikopiko” (2F)

Retro arcade cabinets. Open 8:00 AM – midnight.

Gift shop “Fujimi” (2F)

Sweets and souvenirs. Open 7:30 AM – 9:00 PM.

Relaxation salon “Akari” (6F)

All-hands treatments, 3:00 PM – midnight, last booking 10:30 PM. Closed Tue & Wed — that covers our Tuesday. Book ahead by phone or email; men are limited to reflexology, dry head spa and body care.

Mahjong room · banquet halls · parking

Free parking on site.

Footbath terrace over the Hayakawa
Footbath terrace over the Hayakawa
Lounge
Lounge
Lobby, looking out
Lobby, looking out
The 河鹿荘 sign at the entrance
The 河鹿荘 sign at the entrance
Practical & PoliciesAddress, phone, cancellation, sources
Address
688 Yumoto, Hakone, Ashigarashimo-gun, Kanagawa 250-0311, Japan
Phone
+81 460-85-5561 · Front desk 9:00 AM – 7:00 PM
Plan
温泉付き特別室 -IKOI 憩- · 11:00 checkout · meals served in the room
In the room
TV, phone, electric kettle, tea set, fridge, hairdryer, washlet toilet, soap, body soap, shampoo, conditioner, toothbrush kit, razor, shower cap, comb, hairbrush, towels, bath towels, yukata, slippers, safe, air purifier, and free Wi-Fi throughout.
Cancellation
3 days before 20% · 2 days 30% · 1 day 50% · on the day 100%.
Dining & Food Guide12 spots

Shin-Yokohama

Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum
Restaurant
Must try:6–8 regional ramen masters (mini half-bowls) inside a nostalgic 1958 Showa sunset town

World's first food theme park, recreating a twilight 1958 Tokyo alleyway. Famous ramen masters from Hokkaido, Kyushu, and Tokyo offer mini-bowls so you can sample 2–3 regional styles in one visit. Includes a retro penny candy shop (Dagashi-ya) and Showa-era cafe. Directly on the route to Odawara (5 min walk from Shin-Yokohama Station; coin lockers on site for bags).

📍 5 min walk from Shin-Yokohama Station

🕒 11:00 AM – 9:00 PM (Opens 10:30 AM on holidays/weekends)

💰 ¥450 admission + ~¥650 per mini bowl

Yokohama Chinatown

Bishinshuka (Hong Kong Road Branch)
Restaurant
Must try:Table-side freshly made Mapo Douhua (麻婆豆腐花) & hand-pulled Biangbiang noodles

A beloved Yokohama Chinatown restaurant famous for its viral Mapo Douhua — pure soybean milk is brought to your table and curdles into silky tofu pudding before your eyes, drenched in spicy numbing Sichuan mapo sauce. They also serve the only hand-pulled Biangbiang noodles in Chinatown and handmade dim sum.

📍 Yokohama Chinatown (Hong Kong Road) · 5 min from Motomachi-Chukagai / Ishikawacho Station

🕒 11:00 AM – 10:00 PM (L.O. 9:30 PM) · Open daily

💰 ¥1,000–¥2,500

Hakone-Yumoto

Yubadon Naokichi
Restaurant
Must try:Yuba-don (piping-hot tofu skin in dashi broth with egg)

A beloved Hakone institution in a rustic wooden teahouse along the Hayakawa River. Their signature Yubadon is freshly made yuba simmered in bubbling earthenware pots using pure Hakone spring water and egg. Just 3 min from Hotel Kajikaso.

📍 3 min walk from Hakone-Yumoto Station / Kajikaso

🕒 11:00 AM – 7:00 PM (L.O. 6:00 PM) · Closed Tue

💰 ¥1,000–¥2,000

Hatsuhana Soba (Main Store)
Restaurant
Must try:Jinenjo (wild mountain yam) soba handmade without water

Founded in 1934, famous for kneading soba noodles using only buckwheat flour, wild mountain yam and eggs with no added water. The Seiro Soba (cold noodles dipped in rich grated yam) is silky, earthy and refreshing.

📍 5 min walk from Hakone-Yumoto Station across the river

🕒 10:00 AM – 7:00 PM (L.O. 6:30 PM) · Closed Wed

💰 ¥1,200–¥2,200

Shika-Jaya
Restaurant
Must try:Soun-tofu and traditional tofu & mountain yam kaiseki sets

Set in a historic 3-story wooden former onsen inn. Renowned for Soun-tofu (tofu warmed in kelp broth topped with miso-flavored grated mountain yam) and the multi-course vegetarian-friendly Okabe-zen set.

📍 6 min walk from Hakone-Yumoto Station

🕒 11:00 AM – 3:00 PM & 4:30 PM – 7:00 PM (L.O. 6:15 PM) · Closed Thu

💰 ¥1,500–¥3,500

Hakone Curry Cocoro
Restaurant
Must try:Sizzling stone-pot spice curry with mineral-rich black rice

Simmered for over 5 hours with 17 spices and rich bouillon, served bubbling in heat-proof bowls with healthy black rice and tender braised pork cutlet. A hearty, flavorful alternative to ryokan food.

📍 4 min walk from Hakone-Yumoto Station

🕒 11:30 AM – 2:30 PM & 5:30 PM – 8:00 PM · Closed Mon

💰 ¥1,200–¥2,000

Yamasoba
Restaurant
Must try:Yamakake soba (mountain yam & quail egg) & mountain vegetable tempura

Traditional folk-style soba house right on the main station shopping street. Known for generous tempura bowls with seasonal mountain vegetables and cold soba with fresh grated yam.

📍 2 min walk from Hakone-Yumoto Station

🕒 11:00 AM – 6:30 PM · Closed Thu

💰 ¥1,100–¥2,000

Lake Ashi · Moto-Hakone

Bakery & Table Hakone
Restaurant
Must try:Famous boiled-egg curry bread, bakery cafe & lakeview dining

Iconic 3-story lakeside spot right on the Moto-Hakone pier. 1F bakery (with outdoor hot spring footbath counter under the tables!), 2F cafe, 3F restaurant. Outstanding panoramic views of Lake Ashi and Mt. Fuji.

📍 Directly at Moto-Hakone Port (Sightseeing Cruise stop)

🕒 10:00 AM – 5:00 PM (Bakery opens 9:00 AM, Restaurant 11:00 AM – 5:30 PM)

💰 ¥500–¥2,500

La Terrazza Ashinoko
Restaurant
Must try:Neapolitan wood-fired pizza & fresh local seafood pasta by the lake

Spacious Italian dining at the Ashinoko Terrace complex. Over 30 varieties of authentic wood-fired pizzas, fresh local pasta, and Italian gelato with direct views of the lake and pirate ships.

📍 3 min walk from Moto-Hakone Port

🕒 10:30 AM – 8:00 PM (L.O. 7:30 PM)

💰 ¥1,800–¥3,000

Gōra

Tamura Ginkatsu-tei
Restaurant
Must try:Tofu Katsu-ni (crispy deep-fried tofu stuffed with minced pork in sweet dashi & egg)

The most famous lunch in Gōra. Local Hakone tofu stuffed with minced Japanese pork, breaded and fried, then simmered in a piping hot earthenware pan with egg and dashi. Pull a queue ticket as soon as you reach Gōra.

📍 2 min walk from Gōra Station

🕒 11:00 AM – 2:30 PM · Closed Tue evening & Wed

💰 ¥1,500–¥2,500

Owakudani

Owakudani Kitchen / Ekimae Shokudo
Restaurant
Must try:Owakudani Black Curry, Akagyu roast beef & volcanic black eggs

Dine directly above the active volcanic fumaroles and sulfur steam on 2F of Owakudani Station. Famous for spiced black pork curry and 'Kuro-tamago' (black eggs boiled in mineral springs, adding 7 years to your life).

📍 Owakudani Ropeway Station 2F

🕒 10:30 AM – 4:00 PM (Food L.O. 3:30 PM)

💰 ¥1,200–¥1,800

Togendai Port

Togendai View Restaurant
Restaurant
Must try:Fluffy omurice, cutlet curry & lakeside pirate ship views

Located inside Togendai Station where the ropeway connects to the Lake Ashi cruise. Large picture windows overlook the lake and docking pirate ships. Great quick, reliable sit-down spot mid-circuit.

📍 Inside Togendai Station / Cruise Terminal

🕒 11:00 AM – 3:30 PM

💰 ¥1,100–¥1,800

Stamps to hunt6 spots on this leg
  • Owakudani Station (Hakone Ropeway) — iconic volcanic valley black egg (kuro-tamago) and Mount Fuji motif stamp.
  • Hakone Sightseeing Cruise — distinct pirate ship stamps at Tōgendai, Moto-Hakone, and Hakone-machi ports.
  • Hakone Sekisho (Historic Checkpoint) & Hakone Open-Air Museum — Edo checkpoint barrier seal and sculpture park stamps.
  • Hakone-Yumoto — main Odakyu and Hakone Tozan Railway station master stamp.
  • Every stop on the Golden Route (Gōra, Sōunzan, Tōgendai) maintains its own transit stamp.
  • Odakyu Romancecar platforms at Shinjuku and Odawara have dedicated limited-express stamps.

How the stamp rally works →